It’s a very dry 105 degrees out. As I stepped into the street, I felt my pores seal. Tandoori Narda. Which is good, because, if the oven is hot enough the outside seals and all the moisture is trapped inside. So I should be young forever! Or for another day. Couldn’t stay much longer as I’m spending a fortune on cold bottled water (Did I mention the heat?), which gives me two ideas
1. Write a book with an entirely new slant on the practical travel genre: “How to get by in Europe on $50 . . . . an hour.
2. Invent personal misters: umbrella contraptions with a reserve of water which sprinkle cool mist over you every few minutes. Added bonus = back up water supply for when you run out of money. Say, hour 5.
There’s an attitude here I cannot define. It's relaxed -- very non Parisian. People are very friendly, yet matter of fact. Neither fawning nor rude. As though we are all just neighbors – temporarily possibly, but neighbors nonetheless.
Incredibly easy to navigate with straight boulevards between circular parks, plenty of wide tree-lined sidewalks and green spaces. I wandered my way to breakfast in an outdoor café and ordered the only option: freshest orange juice, coffee with hot milk, toast with olive oil and a tomato-garlic puree. Then I wandered my way into El Prado, reputed to be one of the best Western art museums. It has earned its reputation. It was easy to spend 5 hours there. I particularly appreciated the commentary (Spanish and English) posted next to each painting, with a large summary at the beginning of each collection.
I like museums. I especially like them when it’s 105 degrees outside (did I mention that?).
The accent here is soft. Mismo is pronounced misthmo, but gently. Not mithmo. The Spaniards I’ve met so far seem happy to speak Spanish (R of 4). They may start with an English phrase but once I speak Spanish, we can all stick with it -- without fanfare – or pause.
That's it. The attitude is "without fanfare" Very chill, actually. Is it too early to call Madrid a stylish, European Portland? (After all I’ve been here for over 36 hours, some of them awake, which pretty much makes me a Madrilena, verdad?) Of course, I am staying in Salamanca, a "posh" part of town, butI get the feeling that other neighborhoods may be less expensive but no less dangerous. Those who have been here even longer than me may mock my geographic/sociologic naïveté, but these are my impressions and I’m sticking to ‘em!
At this time of year the hotels are very affordable. I'm booked into a one bedroom apartment with little kitchen (breakfast items included -- yoghurt, water, cereal, fruit and weird individually wrapped Iberian twinkies). Simple, comfortable (wood floors) with some unfortunately high windows -- but in this most expensive neighborhood all for less than $100/night with air con.
I am writing to you while dining on grilled octopus, traditional Spanish torta and halibut (traditional suggestions from the waiter) -- outside, on the sidewalk with potted lime trees between me and the street. Every few seconds we get "misted" because it is, even now, 9:00 pm (early dinner), over 100 degrees!
PS It’s really hot
