23 June 2011

Versailles: Finding the Emperor with No Clothes



Though not a fan of the Baroque and pretty sure that more may be less, I am certain that too much is.  Nevertheless, I was looking forward to taking the kids to Versailles, the must-see French Palace.  After all it commands the interest of 11 million visitors per annum. (Which the 36,000 prols who turned a swamp into the palace grounds may or may not have appreciated.)


"You'll need at least 2 days to see it all!"  we were told at the start of our 3 hour tour.  Our guide, a Latin American gentleman easily narrating in excellent Spanish, French and English (thus a hero), shared his adoration of all things Versailles during the 20 minute drive,  provided very interesting historical details, and .  . 

. . .  Oh Hell, this is my blog.

I appreciate the craftsmanship and the artistry, but . . . c'mon . . . really . . . the palace is gaudy and ghastly.  Too much inside.  Too little outside.  Opulent and barren.   2 days?  Maybe if you wanted to examine every leaf (gold or green).  I was done in 45 minutes -- another 30 in the gardens.  

Over a thousand rooms, with little to distinguish the royal ones:   gold, gilt, tapestries, paintings, sculptures, mirrors, crystal, glittering glass.  There are many exquisite pieces and extraordinary paintings but they overwhelm each other.  There are just too many.  It is as if a kleptomanic toddler was let loose in a Disney Princess Decorating Depot.  (Speaking of toddlers, Trump Towers, anyone?)


Outside, the gardens (fields) were a mockery of Nature to the other extreme:  straight lines, jarhead trees and insipid flowers.  Nothing wild, lush, useful, surprising.  No intrigue.  No enticement.  Passionless.  Sterile.  Clearly the manifestation of a frightened mind, fearful of its own imagination.  

"Okay Louis, Louis, and Louis, 14, 15, 16, you guys are rich.  Really, really, really rich. Super duper rich.  Mega toys. YOU win!"

. . . . soooooooo  now what?

"Get over your short, silly selves!  You, Mr XIVth, may be the sun, but it's spelled s-o-n.   And, for godssake, take a bath!"

"Oh, and before I go:  Shame on You, You and You."

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